Wednesday, April 18, 2012

It's Raining...Let's Go to Churches!


 Originally, I had planned for this weekend to be a two-day trip to Bologna and Ravenna since, to get to Ravenna from Arezzo, you have to go through Bologna station. However, the weather forecasts said there would be nothing but rain and rain and clouds in both Bologna and Ravenna, I decided to alter my plans. Bologna would be no fun without the sun shining, but I knew that destinations where the sights were inside would be fine. I ended up choosing to visit Rome (specifically some churches and the Vatican) on Saturday and heading from there to Ravenna to stay overnight and see the old mosaics (inside of course) on Sunday.

The weekend started off a little rocky. The night before leaving proved to be difficult since I had trouble printing my tickets and confirmation info (everything eventually did get printed) and my very early departure time (7:45am) meant that I misjudged the bus times and ended up having to walk part of the way to the station. However, the train ride was smooth, and, when I arrived in Rome, it was perfectly rainy out. Deciding that both my leg and the weather made walking sound awful, I bought a metro pass (boy was that line crowded! Thank goodness it moved quickly!). I then took the metro to the Repubblica station in order to go see a church recommended to me by another dancer, Santa Maria degli Angeli. Although I was prepared to not be impressed, I ended up absolutely loving the church. It was very open and spacious and every wall was covered in paintings. One of my favorite discoveries was that there was a long metal line in the floor that measured the years and had the astrological sybols around it.

Inside the Santa Maria degli Angeli

One of the astrological symbols on the floor.
After I left the church, I decided to go looking for food. Heading out of the piazza to find something only lead to me stepping in a deep puddle and soaking my left foot, but I eventually found a place to eat in the piazza. From there, I went back down to the metro and took it to the Vatican. Or, at least to the stop closest to the Vatican. I had to walk up some stairs and down some streets (composing a song along the way), but eventually I reached the Vatican museum. Since I already reserved tickets, I bypassed the long line outside and made my way through the crowd inside to the ticket windows. I then quickly got my ticket and entered the museum.

The museum begins with a choice of an escalator or a winding ramp with a view of some old boating artifacts. Normally, with this leg, I would pick the escalator, but the line for it made it completely unappealing and I chose to look at the boats. Once at the top, I realized that this wouldn’t be as easy to navigate as I had thought. There were two signs, pointing in opposite directions, and both listed quite a few museums on them. Since I wanted to save the Sistine Chapel for later, I opted to go right first. From this choice, I then decided to go into the Pinoteca first since it was the closest. When I walked in, it turned out that this museum section hosted all of the artwork portraying religious themes or scenes form the bible. I expected to really be put off by this room (so many Christian saints die horrible deaths that I don’t really want to look at in paintings and the crucifixion process is gruesome), but this section ended up being my favorite in the entire Vatican museums! There were just so many beautiful paintings with subjects with incredibly expressive faces. There were also a ton of really interesting and sassy Marys, which I thoroughly enjoyed seeing. 
The Magdalene

Close up of a painting I adored.

Close up of Mary
Another reason I may have liked this section is that it felt the most like a museum. In most of the other sections, I often had no control over the pace I was moving at, was incredibly boxed in by other people, it was loud, and I occasionally saw people touching statues that they shouldn’t. Urgh!

From this section, I attempted to see the other museum sections on the right, but the only one I could get into was the Vatican postal museum, which bored me fast. As I walked back to the sign to go left, I noticed that the rain had stopped, so I briefly went on the terrace to look around and get a drink of water at the fountain. I then went left from the sign only to see more signs pointing in different directions with multiple museums listed on each one. I think by the end of the day, I had seen all of the museums open in the Vatican, but it is definitely possible that I could have missed a few.

Okay…let’s retrace the path I took. In a nutshell I started in the Egyptian museum (not as cool or exciting as the one in Turin), went into the greek/roman human statue area (also not impressed. I was really surprised that I didn’t love this section, but the statues just weren’t as amazing as the ones I saw in Greece. I think I had too high expectations), walked up the stairs to the animal greek/roman statue room (so amazing but they really didn’t let you get close enough in my opinion), continued through many more rooms and a courtyard of mostly boring greek/roman statues and other stone artifacts, headed up the stairs to the Etruscan museum (oh god the pots…after Greece I just can’t do that many pots in one place ever again), and into the long stretch to the Sistine Chapel and back.
Of of the few things I took a picture of in the Egyptian section

Hallway filled with statues and busts in the Greek/Roman section

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In this stretch, I went through more rooms with boring greek/roman statues, a lot of halls with the walls and ceilings painted (mostly I found these dull, though I really enjoyed two of them. The first being a domed room with the ceiling painted with a fight between angels and demons and the second being a long hallway where the walls were covered with huge maps of sections of Italy), some rooms painted by Raphael (size was impressive….subjects not so much), saw a great painting of Salome, a rooms with some religious services artifacts, many rooms of modern art (it definitely lived up to the bad connotations of “modern art”), and then I was at the Chapel.
Part of ceiling fresco I enjoyed

Close up on a picture of Salome
Part of the map room
And I really wasn’t that impressed.

Maybe it was the hype, maybe it was that I was really art-ed out, but I have a feeling that it was the design that bored me the most. I think I had been expecting some really big paintings that took up a majority of the ceiling with other designs and paintings around them. However, it was just a lot of religious scenes all of about the same size and all contained in rectangles that tiled the ceiling. It was just too monotone and too much to take in. However, I did find the famous rectangle containing Adam and god reaching to touch and a scene with Adam and Eve and the snake right next to it, and I did enjoy seeing those two. But, even so, I wasn’t that amazed and I left the Chapel to get out of the crowd as quickly as possible.

From there, I began the tortuous walk back (I was really sick of art at that point). I don’t remember much except that there were some wonderfully open windows that I saw some cool views from, there were more papal robes on display, more rooms with painted walls and ceilings, more religious paintings, and some globes that mapped the stars (I did stop for these…these were cool).
Globe of the constilations
Back at where I first made my choice to go right or left and ready to leave, I realized that I still hadn’t seen St. Peter’s Basilica and that I didn’t know how to get there. Eventually, I realized I had to leave the museum to do so, so I walked down the ramp-like stairs and left the museum. I then walked around the wall containing the Vatican to reach the piazza where the Basilica was only to find a huge line snaking out of the church and most of the way around the piazza. Since I didn’t have a huge amount of time left in Rome, I decided to leave the Basilica to another day and I went back to the subway. On the metro, I had another choice to make: just head back to the train station or try to go to the last church I wanted to see in the hour I had left? I opted to push my luck and I ran through the metro to switch lines and go to the church Monica had recommended to me. Luckily, the church ended up being about a minute’s walk from the metro so I had no timing issues. However, I was rather bored by the church itself. The architecture and walls were plain and the Michelangelo statue I had come to see ended up being not as spectacular as I had hoped. Even so, I did end up really liking some of the statues of death that were scattered through the church. 
Michelangelo's sculpture in the church

Statue of death
Since I hadn’t been enthralled, I made good time back to the metro and decided to buy water. Unfortunately, the machine sold me fizzy stuff so I had to buy a normal bottle with my dinner when I got back to the train station. After quickly picking up some pizza and good water, I ran to my train (picking up an extra bottle along the way since I knew I was going to be reeeeeally thirsty), and boarded.

From there, it was a smooth ride to Ravenna. However, once in Ravenna, I realized that this city wasn’t nearly as lit up at night nor well-signed as I had thought so I ended up taking a taxi from the station to my hostel. I ended up really liking the hostel (the staff was so nice, the facilities were clean and really artsy in decoration, breakfast was great, my bed was comfy and I slept the night) though it wasn’t the smoothest stay I’ve ever had (for a while I thought no one was manning the check in counter when I arrived, there turned out to be no soap in the bathroom I used though I found one with soap that I used the next morning, and the metal key locks they had on the doors didn’t like me).

In the morning, I woke up earlier than I had planned, went to breakfast, and checked out. Using the amazing map that the hostel gave me, I walked without any problem to the first stop on my mosaic journey. In this rectangular church, the two long side walls held mosaics portraying many women offering crowns to Mary on one side and many men offering crowns to Jesus on the other. I will admit, I had heard that the mosaics were going to be incredible, but I was still really amazed by what I saw. The details, the colors, and the sheer size of the designs were phenomenal in all of the sites that I went to and I thoroughly enjoyed all of them.
Mosaics at first site

Mosaics at first site
From this site, I then went to the tomb of Dante (which was sadly small and I nearly passed by it. However, I realized that that was it when I backtracked and discovered a huge crowd had converged in the five seconds I had been away) 
Tomb of Dante
and then walked to the next two mosaic sites (which were located right next to each other). The first was a baptistery where the designs showed Jesus being baptized, the apostles, and other Christian iconography. What I really enjoyed about this site was how close I was able to get to the mosaics and how intimate it was while still being a large space (also, the designs were beautiful too).
The second mosaic site

The second mosaic site

The second mosaic site

The second mosaic site

The next site was actually a museum that contained two rooms with mosaic ceilings, many old stone carvings from churches, some old religious service items, and bits of mosaics of people saved from other sites. I really loved the mosaic ceilings in this site (there were DUCKS all of one of them, the colors were spectacular, and it was amazing getting so close to the bits of people mosaics), but I hated that you could not take pictures at this site (it didn’t stop me from trying to sneakily snap a few though. However, I think the museum worker guy suspected me since he kept walking in and it made me antsy so I only got a few pictures).
The third mosaic site

The third mosaic site
After leaving this site, I realized it was still well before noon and I only had two more sites to see! Since it had stopped raining, I killed time until noon by just wandering around, finding a restaurant, and just playing solitaire and Sudoku on my phone for a while. Once noon hit, I then entered the restaurant, got my food, and ate as slowly as possible. My dish (cannanolli al ragu…I think) was tasty, but not something I’d order regularly and my dessert (some cake thing smothered in chocolate), ended up being far more fruity (and not a good fruity) than I expected so the meal was so-so. 
My lunch

My lunch
By the time I was done, it was close-ish to 1pm, so I figured I could head over to the next sites and just take them veeeeeerrrry sloooooooowwwllly in order to take up time.

The last two sites were located next to each other and connected with a museum. I didn’t go into the museum (that would have cost more), but I got to see some beautiful old carvings around the courtyard that lead to the first of the two sites. From the courtyard, I then walked down some stairs into the Basilica where the mosaics where.

Now this was an incredibly intimidating and impressive church. It was slightly dark, very large (there was more than one floor though you could only go into the ground floor), filled with arches, and had darkly colored paintings on the ceiling on the walls. All this would have been incredibly impressive on its own, but the mosaics covering the walls and ceiling of the large area containing the alter were mind-blowing. The colors were astounding, the scale was huge, and the details were amazing. It was very easy to waste time just sitting in the pews and staring at it all. I don’t know how I took pictures of all of it, but I definitely did and I loved some of the details I noticed because of doing so.
The church that is the fourth mosaic site

The mosaics at the fourth site

The mosaics at the fourth site

The mosaics at the fourth site



The mosaics at the fourth site

The mosaics at the fourth site
After giving my mind enough time to put itself back together while staring at the mosaics, I eventually got up to go to the last site. Just outside from the Basilica was a mausoleum that was the last site with mosaics. Although I didn’t enjoy the pictures and coloring as much in this site as in some of the others, I absolutely adored the abstract design that covered the ceiling of the entrance and pictures of what I think were deer or moose on two of the walls.
Mosaics at the fifth site

Mosaics at the fifth site
After leaving these sites, I decided that I really needed to find a bathroom. However, the closest free one that I knew of was back at the first mosaic site…far away from my current location. I almost made it back there, but ended up stopping in a café with a restroom 3/4ths of the way there. In appreciation, I bought a chocolate filled croissant and a bag of potato chips for 2 euros total (which was amazing considering how nice this café looked).

From there, I had about three hours to kill, so I decided to back track the route I had just walked since I had seen a handful of open stores in my quick passing. I ended up going into every store that I saw was open, though I only ended up trying on stuff at one store, Zara (and I didn’t buy anything). Once I had walked almost the whole way back to the museum, I stopped at a bench and just people watched while letting the wonderful sun that had come out when I was at the Basilica just shine on me. During this lovely sit, I eventually realized that I had no clue where my umbrella was. So I went back to all of the stores, the café, and even the Basilica and Mausoleum, but I didn’t find any trace of where my umbrella had gone too (and I still have no clue). However, this search did kill a lot of time so I eventually gave up, bought some food to go and walked back to the station. As I write this, I am currently on the train from Bologna to Arezzo (the train from Ravenna to Bologna went fine though it rained heavily during that ride and I saw a lot of lighting…which was a little worrying since I was sitting in a giant metal box) though I’m sure that when I post this it will be much later.

Until next time!
Ciao! 

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