Thursday, March 15, 2012

Madrid Doesn't Like Me Very Much (And the Feeling is Mutual)

After landing, I quickly walked towards the exit, expecting to find lots of taxi service desks. That was not the case however, and the signs for taxis lead me out of the airport and on to the street where many were lined up. I got into the line (there were actually ropes creating a line formation), and the man at the front pointed me to the next available taxi. I got in, gave him my destination, and noticed the counter.


Now I know about how the counters work, and I’ve seen taxis that use them before. But I had really gotten used to fixed rate taxis, so I was worried the price could get really high if traffic got bad or something. Unfortunately, as we left the airport, I noticed the counter going up quickly based on time and not movement, and I began my mantra of “please let it be between 35 and 30 euros please!” By the time we reached the hotel, it was a little over 35, but below 40 so I was grateful and got out, and he left.

That’s when I realized that I had no idea where the hotel was. The taxi driver had pointed to the other side of the street, but I couldn’t see any numbers on the buildings and there were no signs at eye level. So I walked up the street until I found a number. Based on that, I realized it must have been back where I was, and, when I turned around, I looked up and could see the huge sign above eye level that I had missed before. So I went back and checked into the hotel.

My room was on the second floor, and, although my keycard was temperamental, I really liked my rooms. Since I forgot to take pictures (sorry!), I’ll describe them briefly. The bedroom was set up so that the bed was coming out of the middle of one wall with a closet on the right and a nightstand on the left. Facing the bed was a TV on the wall, and the door leading to a bathroom that smelled funny, but was an okay size and had a really nice shower (it had a full sliding door and a really strong shower head that warmed up fast). I also really liked the bed since it could easily fit two, had two very long pillows, and all of the sheets were soft and warm (but not too much so).

When I got up in the morning, I showered, discovered I had a huge mosquito bite on my arm (I have no idea how I got that since I wore long sleeves the whole previous day. Did I get it at night?), and went downstairs for breakfast. I had sort of bran cornflakes, some strawberries, and some bread. All of it was okay, but not the best. I then went back upstairs to get my outer coat, and then I headed out.

When I got outside, it was freezing, but I figured that I would quickly warm up as I walked. So I headed to Plaza Mayor, which turned out to be just down the block (really, thank you so much mom. You found hotels in the best locations ever). It was pretty, but boring, so I took some pictures and then ran back to the hotel to get my inner coat. From there, I went back through the plaza to head towards the palace. Along the way, I found many interesting things such as a large food market and an adorable stairway under a bridge.
Plaza Mayor

The market I found

Bridge I found

Stairs under the bridge
I then reached the cathedral that marked the beginning of the road with the palace on it. I ended up enjoying the cathedral’s architecture more than the palace, but neither were too awe inspiring after the palace at Vienna and the many beautiful cathedrals I saw in Italy. I continued to walk alongside it, taking pictures along the way, until I reached the end. There I found two gardens (one to the right of the palace and one behind it). I explored the one to the right first and found a large fountain, statues of many Spanish kings (and one queen), and the royal theater.
The palace

The cathedral

The statues of previous kings

Garden next to the palace
I then walked over to the back of the palace to take some more pictures and discovered a pretty rainbow dome in the distance. I decided to go look for it, so I ended up walking along the other park for a while. Eventually, after walking for a short while and over a bridge, I found out that the pretty dome was connected to an ugly (and closed) church. However, the trip wasn’t wasted because I found an amazing statue dedicated to those lost in a war, a pretty silver domed building, and, when I walked back, I walked through the park (which was really mediocre).
The pretty dome
The garden behind the palace

The pretty silver dome

The interesting statue I found 
I then headed back to towards the Plaza Mayor in order to get lunch there, but I actually ended up at the market instead, which was a much better plan. There I bought lasagna, two fried balls that were supposedly were filled with meat but looked like they mostly contained rice with some spices and a little cheese, a shish kebab of tandoori chicken, a donut, and some chips. All of it tasted amazing, and I resolved to try and return again (which sadly, never did happen).
The market

At the market

My lunch

My lunch

My lunch

My lunch
Chips in hand, I headed back out and over to the Puerta del Sol. Again, the area wasn’t that amazing, but I had a good time finishing my chips while watching all of the street performers. I then sat down to figure out where to go next, when I realized I had missed going to a supposedly legit flamenco shop back near the palace and that it was getting extremely hot. So I went back to my hotel, dropped off my coat, and headed to the flamenco shop.
Puerta del Sol


Performers in Puerta del Sol
Only this time I took a back route and, moving purely by my sense of direction, I ended up on exactly the street I wanted. Unfortunately, after this victory, the shop wasn’t that amazing, and I headed back to the Puerta del Sol. From there, I walked to the Gran Via because it supposedly had a great bookstore on it and because it would lead me past many famous sights on my way to the Reina Sofia Museum. Although I had to backtrack a bit to find it, the bookstore was definitely worth going to. Besides having four floors, it also had bookshelves that you could slide aside in order to find more books! It was great! While I was there, I also found a wonderful copy of Alice in Wonderland in Spanish with original illustrations, which I was very excited to buy.

My wonderful find in hand, I then headed back down the Gran Via toward the Plaza de la Cibeles, and, from there, I turned right and walked to the Fountain of Neptune, walked further down, and turned right again to reach the museum. The walk was a pretty long distance, and I kept tripping over cracks and uneven dips in the sidewalk (something that unfortunately continued for the ENTIRE rest of my time in Madrid). Since it was after 2:30pm on Saturday, I was able to go in for free, which was awesome. However, I was really tired and not feeling so great by that time, so I didn’t explore the museum too much. Instead I went up to the second floor to Picasso’s Guernica.

Gran Via

Metropolis

Plaza de Cibeles

Fountain of Neptune

Reina Sofia Museum
Although it was extremely impressive to see in real life (the sheer size of it! The range of colors from black to white that doesn’t show up in copies!), I didn’t have an emotional reaction to it. Maybe it was because I was tired and there was no place to sit and look at it (seriously museum people? Your most famous piece and you don’t have a place for people to sit and stare at it for a while?), or maybe it was because I had emotionally connected to it in previous viewings and so did not experience anything new. I don’t know. Anyways, even with the crowds and the lack of seating and reactions, I still enjoyed seeing it. Also, as an extra treat, in the room next door, there were the early sketches that Picasso did for the painting. Besides showing the amazing amount of thought that must have gone into the painting, the early sketches were extremely impressive and mostly terrifying.

After that, I headed back down the glass elevators (did I mention that before? Cause they were extremely cool) and out of the museum. I was feeling pretty worn out by that time, but it was still early so I decided to head back up the way I came and see how I felt when I got close to some sights of interest. After completing my walk to the point of where I could either go straight to the hotel or go branch out to some sights, I was feeling a little better, so I headed out. Luckily the first, a restaurant frequented by Mata Hari and Orson Wells was just up the block from the Plaza de la Cibeles. From there I headed back to the Plaza and up Gran Via to find the bar frequented by Ernest Hemmingway, Orson Wells, and Frank Sinatra. My last stop on the famous places to eat or drink list was just up the street from my hotel so I stopped by briefly to see their famous tiles (though I’m not sure if I saw the right thing considering I didn’t go in). After that, I headed back to the hotel, stopped to see an amazing drummer playing on kitchenware in the street, reached the hotel, and collapsed for a bit.

Restaurant frequented by Mata Hari and Orson Wells

Bar frequented by Ernest Hemmingway, Orson Wells, and Frank Sinatra

Restaurant with famous tiles
Amazing street performer
Unfortunately, I developed a migraine while I walked, so I ended up relaxing in the hotel for longer then I expected. When I finally got up, the pain was gone but the nausea remained in part so I walked out very wary of my possible dinner. I first stopped at the small market next to my hotel where I picked up a muffin with chocolate chips in it. I then headed into Plaza Mayor simply because it had a ton of restaurants and was close. While I walked around it, I was unable to really see anything besides paella or seafood both of which just in thought made my stomach feel awful. After two laps, I headed down one of the side streets and found a kebab place. Kebab wasn’t sounding great but wasn’t making me feel sick so I decided to do one more lap and then go there if I didn’t find anything. I ended up finding a restaurant that sold lasagna, which ended up tasting great and being the perfect comfort food that my stomach wanted. Feeling much better, I also ordered a mini burger from them (which was just okay, but was filling in just the way I wanted) and then went to a candy shop after. As I had walked by the kebab place, I had noticed two shops selling these long rope candies that I saw everywhere, and I decided to try some. They ended up not being so great, but the thin blue sour strips I got ended up being great so everything turned out all right.
Amazing display at candy shop

My dinner

My dinner

My candy
After buying my candy, I headed back to my hotel and relaxed, ate the candy, and did homework until around midnight. I then went to bed completely wiped out.

The next morning came too early as I woke up at 8am in order to have extra time at El Rasto market my guidebook had suggested before I left for the airport. I then dressed and went downstairs for breakfast (same cereal but with two croissants this time) and then went upstairs again to research how to get to the airport.

This all ended up taking a bit longer than expected, so I ended up leaving the hotel by 9pm. Luckily the market was only 5 minutes or so away so this wasn’t much of a problem. Until I saw the market.

Naschmarket had mainly been overwhelming because of the size and because of how little space there was due to the large crowds of people. El Rasto was overwhelming solely due to size. Every time I would come to the end of a street or see a side street, I would pray, “Please let this be it—If it’s not, I’m going to cry” only to discover another plaza filled with stalls. Luckily it wasn’t really that overwhelming so I didn’t cry, but I was really impressed with its immenseness. I think I ended up seeing most of it, but I’m sure I missed a side street or two so I have no idea how big it might really be.

At the front and main street of the market, most of the stalls were based on selling clothes, purses, and jewelry. As you got further into the side streets and plazas, you began to see stalls selling second hand clothes, flea market knick-knacks, electric and mechanical parts, movies, and comic books. 

El Rasto

El Rasto

El Rasto

El Rasto

El Rasto
I was attracted to a lot of the clothes’ designs, but mostly found them to be not as nice on expectation (mostly in terms of fabric quality, but there was this one scarf that I loved until I saw its reverse color side. Then it unfortunately looked like puke). However, I did find three stalls with things I liked a lot. One was a stall with a really funky and soft coat (final decision: not to buy because I had no way to take it back to Italy and because someone else bought it). The second was a soft blue skirt with a really cute lizard on it (final decision: not to buy since the lizard is cute, but I barely wear skirts, and the dresses I bought in Barcelona are more fun anyways). The last was the hardest since it was a stall that sold purses of the same design as the big purple purse I have with the embroidery and pompoms on it. After much deliberation, deciding to buy, realizing I needed some cash, and going to get some, I decided not to buy one since I was only choosing the design I liked best, not a purse that I just absolutely loved; I had not way to fit it in my bag to Italy; and I could always order one in the states if need be. So I left the market with some gifts for others (not telling what!) and nothing for myself, but that was okay.

I then ran back to the hotel since deliberating had taken much longer than expected, checked out, and walked fast along the route to the museum since the bus station was right next door, only stopping to grab a subway sandwich to go.

I ended up getting to the station and on the bus sooner than expected (even with the city tripping me every other minute), though, when I sat down, I noticed that there had been a more direct route from my hotel to the station. In other words, instead of walking from point A to point B to point C on a triangle, I could have just walked from A to C. Another point to you Madrid! So, when the bus moved out of Madrid, I will say I was not sad at all to leave the city. I had begun thinking of the city as the sweet but shy (and a lot more formal/imperial looking) sister to Barcelona, but, by the time I left, I was purely thinking of the city as the brat that kept playing tricks on me and was resentful of my presence.

On the road, I felt good again, free of Madrid’s tricksy ways. I even was able to enjoy the amazing sight of Madrid’s graveyard, which had to be as big as a small island and a style similar to Arezzo’s graveyard. But all the happy feelings left once I hit the airport. Getting my ticket was fine, eating my lunch was fine, looking for a trashcan was frustrating since it turned out there were none on my side of security and the rest were all of the other side, but my flight was ridiculous. First they told us that boarding was going to be delayed 30 minutes, it was then delayed for around 45 minutes, then boarding took forever since the ticket rippers were slow, then we waited for 30 minutes on the plane not moving, then we took a very long time to get to the take-off strip, and finally we were in the air. They said the wait was for passengers from another flight but an hour and a half of waiting seems to be going overboard a bit. Whether or not that was the real reason, I was very much annoyed. When we finally landed, we also took a while to reach the gate, so I ended up missing both of the trains I planned on possibly taking out of Rome. However, then next shuttle to Roma Termini was departing in about 15 minutes after I arrived so I grabbed some food and then boarded. While on the train, I ate and chatted with a nice man who lived in Britain but was from Holland and was in Italy for work. He needed some advice on the train system, so that’s how we ended up chatting. Once we reached the station, I bolted out of the train and ran to the nearest ticket counter. Luckily, the next train to Arezzo was leaving in 5 minutes, so I bought the ticked fast, ran to the correct train, and hopped on. Which is where I am now. Hopefully I’ll be back in Arezzo by 10pm, but we’ll see. At least I’m not in Madrid.

Good riddance Madrid and ciao Italia! I’ve missed you!

p.s. Even this post was more difficult to upload then the other ones. O Madrid, how you continue to plague me...

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